Setting your dinner table for wine

The culture of dining has changed so much over our generation.  Formal fine dining has lost some momentum, where fast casual has given rise in popularity and talent.  TV dinners have evolved to takeaway, and fast food has given more consideration to healthier and sustainable options.

One concept that has remained relatively steadfast is how we entertain at home.  This is because entertaining in one’s personal space is still that –

"A set of personal decisions to convey one’s humor, thoughtfulness and style, whatever your status or culture."

It’s wonderful to entertain at home even if at times it feels masochistic.  For those of us who may be more introverted or tend towards perfectionism, it can be downright agonizing.  But what I always remind myself is that how we impress others is different when they come over – in fact, do we need to impress them at all? 

Dining is different the world over – if you’re setting for an Indian dinner, a Japanese or a Chinese one, are you molding yourself for your guests, or are they adjusting to you?  Like most things that affect our relationships, there is no binary code for setting a table, or the impressions you wish to make.  That being said, there are some key elements to ensure the focus of the evening remains quality time with your guests.

Each gathering has its own chemistry dependent on so many factors, whether it’s the weather, or what’s just been announced in the news.  These are not in our control, so take comfort there.  What we can do is make decisions that go into setting a table – setting your tone.  

"I recommend embracing the notion that guests have been invited to experience your hospitality, your personality."

On that note, feel confident in what you’re serving for food, beverage and ambiance – serve what you personally like, and don’t fret about their possible reactions.  Starting with wine, your guests know you’re a wine lover, so go ahead and show them you’re prepared. 

I like to set the table with one water glass and two wine glasses per person, if you can.  Traditionally in a “western” table setting, glassware is clustered on the right, above the knife, because the vast majority were and are right handed.  But since home is not a restaurant, the rules are off the table, so to speak.  If all of your friends are left-handed, by all means, move the glassware to the left (though I can assure you that we lefties have all adapted to the right handed beverage settings). 

One’s personal space at the table will vary – you might have a last minute drop out, or an unexpected plus one.  It is often the placement of glassware which can make or break the usable space.  If you are serving family style food, keep the glassware in a cluster above the knife or chopsticks on the right.  I like to keep the water glass closest to the person just to be considerate; it is also easiest for refilling as water will be the apolitical beverage during the meal.  I like to place the first wine glass diagonally to the left of the water glass, and the second glass nestled between and above the other two – it always make me think of the little grape cluster that we used to doodle as kids. 

If you are serving composed and plated courses of food, feel free to line the glasses up horizontally, as you don’t need to worry about stray spoon handles or chopsticks knocking into any glasses.  It will suit your guests better if you intend to pour specific wines in a specific order – more of a tasting experience.  Whatever tasting adventure you are targeting, keep the wine glass setting easily accessible to your guests, as they will likely nose and sip multiple times. 

To add a little texture to the table, I like mixing glassware by height and design – even if it is the water glass.  You might like a colored glass to add interest.  Brands such as Spiegelau offer these kinds of choices in addition to bowl shape.  Not only does this mixing create more of a tablescape, it also minimizes breakage – a most practical bonus.   

On the note of being practical, I like to keep a decanter nearby.  I don’t usually use them myself, but if friends have brought wine to share, I like to have them decide how to serve, and decanters are fair game.  We also keep an ice bucket, or simply put some wines in the fridge if they need an extra chill.  Corkscrews are a must as the host, even if your friends have a reputation of “concealed carry” – The Durand is particularly useful because it is so risk averse.  

The above are “must haves,” and to that, there are a few “nice to haves” to consider.  Do you enjoy the occasional blind tasting exercise?  A bottle sleeve is great, but you can easily use some aluminum foil or socks – my dear friend swears by the old Cathay Pacific socks to get the job done.  Blinding bottles may not be your thing, but it is an interesting practice (or performance, for some) and always a vivid talking point.  Chances are, you may have a guest or two who really enjoys sharing an opinion.

Speaking of talking points, the last two elements that I spend time preparing in advance are a playlist and a center piece.  Wine and friends make the perfect combination – you don’t need more.  However, music adds a wonderful vibe, and it’s an opportunity for guests to learn a more intimate side of you.  Alternatively, you can play safe background music if it is the most comfortable and appropriate.

Finally, If there are guests you’d like to get to know better, placing something in the middle of the table can bring intrigue.  I don’t mean a vase of flowers, but rather something that speaks to your quirk.  It can represent the theme for your evening, or otherwise be really random.  I’ve used a brass trumpet, an unused champagne cork from a factory, or an unusual book in the past.  It might seem silly, but it is just the type of thing to break the ice and encourage storytelling – the perfect pairing for your thoughtful table setting. 

	Yvonne Cheung
	Yvonne Cheung is an award winning sommelier based in Hong Kong. She worked previously as the Group Director of Wines for Swire Hotels, as well as the Director of Food and Beverage for The Upper House. She joins Ginsberg+Chan as a special contributor.